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Surf’s Up at Locquirec !

"Surf’s up, Ace."

Who hasn’t seen Keanu Reeves and Patrick Swayze in the classic film ’Point Break’ and dreamt of being a surfer?

Locquirec is famous in France for its port and for featuring in a Michel Lang film (L’hôtel de la plage), but is also well-known among fans of surfing and boardsports in general who loves its rolling waves, making it an exceptional surf spot.

From Hawaii to Locquirec

Born in Hawaii several hundred years ago, surfing was known as the art of the Gods. Later coming to Europe and to Brittany, those who loved the sea were soon fascinated by this ’ocean dance’.

surf à Locquirec, Finistère, Bretagne

The little peninsula of Locquirec boasts several beaches, and surfers meet up on different ones according to the weather conditions: some are only accessible at low tide, others at high tide, exposed to the swells or very protected.

  • In Pors ar Villiec, there are some fairly easy waves to catch, so it’s ideal for longboards and bodyboarding at high tide
  • At the Sables Blancs, the waves are generally shallow, sot hey’re best suited to bodyboarding and shortboarders
  • The Moulin de la Rive works at all tides but is at its best at low tide with the sea halfway in
  • Finally, at Poul Rodou, beneath the cafe-bookshop "Le Caplan & Co", you’ll find a good spot for longboarding at high tide, a great place to go when there are large swells.

Who are these surfers?

They love the sea and are passionate about board sports! Coriolan, a true-blue Locquirec man, grew up by the sea and has always been fascinated by watersports. "I used to watch the bigger kids out in the water, and just longed to try surfing. I had my first go and it felt incredible - I was immediately hooked!".

surf à Locquirec, Finistère, Bretagne

Amazing to watch out on the waves, the surfers certainly make their mark on the beach as young women are seduced by the surfer sex appeal and cool attitude. Surfwear might now be a style in its own right, but it’s a whole way of life. If you want to try it, start with the basic surf look: coloured t-shirt, open shirt or a hoody over the top, long board shorts or cut-off jeans, and of course your flip-flops and cool shades.

On the beach, dressed in their lurid shorts in summer or full wetsuits in winter, a board tucked under their arm, the surfers watch the waves. In the heart of this sand and foam, a succession of waves unfurls, one after another. Time to get in there!

Lying flat on the board, they paddle with all their might to reach the waves that are big enough to carry them, the waves they’ve been watching from the shore. If the waves are quick enough, the surfers will catch them, pop up on their boards and ride them to shore. It’s a great sight, and even for the spectators it’s breathtaking to see someone catch a great wave all the way in.

Locquirec attitude

In Locquirec, when there are the right swells, the waves can get up to 2 or 3 metres high. It’s perfect for trying out some moves. But watch out for the infamous "washing machine" of rough waters!

bodyboard à Locquirec, Finistère, Bretagne

Skilled surfers are out there as much as possible, whenever they get a free minute. When you get the right weather conditions, with the combination of wind and wave, you’ll see young Locquirec surfers running across the port, wetsuit on and a board under their arms. A little further on, in the car park at Pors ar Villiec, you’ll see a row of coloured vans and campers, whose owners are out enjoying the waves.

According to Glenn, a surfer from this area, "Brittany is becoming more and more valued for its surf spots, like those at Locquirec. Some of the beaches, that have hardly anyone on them during the week, will attract crowds at the weekend when there’s the right weather, so it’s also really important to respect the rules about surfing and respect the space of other surfers nearby."

Of course, it’s an activity in which you need to be careful, but there’s also a culture of respect for others and for the environment - with an added bonus of a beautiful horizon and the rugged coast as a panoramic backdrop!

surf à Locquirec, Finistère, Bretagne

Those who are passionate about surf have longed for an established surf structure at Locquirec, which has now been achieved, as a Surf School is opening this summer at the Moulin de la Rive.

Photo credits: Coriolan Pons & Théo Cadran.